۱۳۸۷ مرداد ۲۵, جمعه

. the Unislamic Republic of Underground Iran

In Iran, the list of forbidden things seems endless. It is forbidden to drink alcohol. It is forbidden for a woman to show her hair, her arms, her legs. It is forbidden to have parties at home. It is forbidden to watch uncensored satellite channels. It is forbidden for a woman to sing in public. You can be arrested for holding hands with your boyfriend, for having too much hair showing outside of your scarf, for drinking alcohol in your own house, for showing varnished toe nails… If an Iranian is arrested for these forms of inappropriate-unislamic behavior, she/he can spend the night in the police station, and will have to sign a paper saying she/he will not misconduct anymore. If you do it again, you risk high fines, whipping and even prison. Our friend Gala, an artist a bit rebel who always has wild hair running outside her colourful scarves, once spoke English to the policeman who wanted to arrest her: it worked, the policeman let her go, he was didnt want to look harsh on a tourist ! Just to give an idea of risks and costs: if a young man is arrested walking romantically in a parc with a young girl, and they dont have a certificate of marraige, they are arrested, sent to the police station, the police calls their parents, and they face a fine of about 50 euros. By comparison, for a speeding ticket (even in a very dangerous place, like a winding road in the mountain...) you pay the equivalent of 15 euros...


Underground Iran is also intellectuals circulating censored dvds, artists organizing living-model sketching clubs (I actually attended one today. The model is not naked, but still there is a liberating perfume of outlawry in the artist workshop…), leftists circles denouncing religion.
Underground Iran is all you can download on the internet, from heavy metal music to political pamphlets. This is how we went to the mountain north of Teheran listening to Iron Maiden and other "satanic" music playing loud in the car...

Underground Iran is a longer list of forbidden things you enjoy with friends and family. Parties with home-made vodka – they call it dog vodka, because it is so strong, the strongest alcohol is the cheapest and easiest to manufacture. Armenians are the specialists of this, and it is not very difficult to get vodka. For wine and beer it is more expensive. Usually, people pour some vodka in an Islamic (=nonalcoholic) beer. When you arrive at friend's home for a party, if you are a woman, you are first directed towards a room to change your clothes, from the Islamic long-sleeve dull colored "manto" to a sexy dress, low waist pants etc. It is amazing to admire the disciples of Britney Spears and Lindsey Lohan in the country of Ayatollah Khomeyni, comparing their cleavages, plastic-surgerized nose, and hip-undulations… Then, before leaving, you will have to re-Islamize yourself.

Underground Iran is also dreams of exile. Going to Europe to study, and maybe never come back. Emigrating to Canada, or maybe Australia, wherever provided you have a future. Many young women say they don’t care that much about the veil, but they would like to live in a place where they would not be continually worried about economic sanctions plaguing their perspectives.

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